Kate Bishop Coat

When I first saw this coat, I really wanted it, but considering it was almost one thousand dollars, it wasn’t a possibility, so I decided to try and make it. I started with a similar pattern and modified it to look like the original coat I was trying to replicate.

MaterialsFlannel, silk lining, buttons, interfacing
Date Complete4/11/21
ProjectIndependently
DesignReplica

Process

I started with Mood Fabrics’ “The Hydrus Cosplay” coat pattern as my base. I made that out of muslin, to begin with, so I was familiar with how to make it and had a better understanding of the pattern and how it works so, I could change it. Once that was done, I marked what changes needed to be made. These changes included:

  • Making the top collar smaller
  • Straightening the edges of the lapels because they were curved
  • Getting rid of the cuffs and shortening the sleeves
  • Adding a welt pocket instead of the patch pockets included
  • Making it less fitted
  • Making the coat longer
  • Adding slits to the sides

With that, I then started changing the pattern pieces so they would reflect these changes. After that was done, I made another mock-up to make sure it looked how I wanted it to because I was having issues with the instructions. From there, I was happy with how it looked, and I understood the best way to construct it.

I cut out my fabric and started with the pockets first, where I sewed them at the same angle. Then, because I couldn’t easily take that out and start again, I had to find more of that fabric. Once that arrived, I fixed the pocket. I also cut out a new back piece so the pattern would match up a little bit better.

From there, it was smooth sailing, and the coat was finished with a nice lining, but there is no lining in the sleeves because I couldn’t understand how to do it, and looking back now, it is probably best to have as little fabric in the sleeves as possible so that I can have layers underneath. I also added buttons to give the illusion that it is double-breasted, but it does not have a closure in reality.

What I would change:
I would probably try to find a better pattern that was double-breasted. Also, I would probably make it a size or two bigger, so it looked bulky like the original does. I would also change the fabric to look more like the original and choose more of a traditional coat fabric and not a flannel to add to the overall look.